Hot Foil Printing Plates, Blocks, Dies

Hello and welcome back to our series of videos about hot foil printing! My name is David Chill, and I run Versatility in Print. You can find me on the internet at hotfoiluk.com. This year, we’ve received multiple requests from viewers of our previous videos to explain a bit more about blocks, plates, and dies, as it can be a little confusing.

Understanding Blocks, Plates, and Dies

First of all, let’s clarify: blocks, plates, and dies are all terms for the same type of product. Many people struggle with knowing which blocks or plates they should be using on their machines. These plates are made of different materials, including:

• Polymer
• Magnesium (the most common material available)
• Zinc (not commonly used today due to environmental concerns)
• Copper or Brass (used for long print runs)

Let's dive a little deeper into these materials. Zinc is less favored now because the by-products of creating zinc dyes include arsenic and cyanide, which aren’t environmentally friendly. Most people are opting for magnesium. However, if you’re doing extensive print runs—like half a million or a million items—copper or brass dyes are an option. They offer sharper resolution but come at a significantly higher price point.

Creating Polymer Plates

Polymer plates are available in a standard thickness called sixteenth gauge, which is relatively thin. To create a polymer plate, you need a polymer plate maker, and here’s a quick overview of the process:

1. The polymer material arrives in a soft, black bag.
2. Lay a negative over the material, which you can produce using a laser or inkjet printer on acetate.
3. Place the negative over the material and put it under a UV light box. The UV light will harden the areas exposed to light.
4. After 10-15 seconds, remove it from the UV light box, peel off the transparency, and wash it under warm water with a soft brush.
5. Finally, place it back under the UV light to further harden the polymer.

Make sure it’s completely dry before sticking it onto your machine. Remember, you need a special polymer plate that can withstand higher temperatures for hot foil printing.

Comparing Different Plate Thicknesses

Let’s take a look at the differences between various plate thicknesses:

When it comes to cost, the thinner the plate, the less expensive it is. However, thinner plates are more susceptible to damage. For one-off jobs, a 16-gauge plate may seem attractive due to its price, but in a commercial environment, it’s often better to opt for an 8-gauge plate or thicker for efficiency.

Using Embossing Plates

We often get questions about embossing, which differs from standard dye printing. An embossing plate requires two plates: a male plate that protrudes and a female plate that is etched into the material. To create an emboss, align both plates, and you will see the male plate stick up out of the paper while the female plate is pressed into it.

That wraps up our brief overview of different types of dies! Stay tuned for my next video, where we’ll be using these dies directly on our hot foil machine. Don’t forget to check out our website at hotfoiluk.com or give me a call at Versatility in Print. Until next time, thank you very much!